Gem setting



C. T. \NITTSTEIN GEM SETTING I Filed NOV. 12, 1919 noon GLARLES T. ii jl'i'i'b'llmihi, T3 NEWARK, midi/V J'EPJESEY, ASSIGIQ'OR F10 ARCH CROWN 11 111 63.

(30., A COBPQEATION OF NEW GEM Application filed Teiovember 12, 1919.

T 0 oil whom it may concern:

resident of Ne, ark in the county of and state of New Jersey, have invented and useful improvements .n Gein Setti of whicn the following is a specification.

This i ven ion relates in general to settings, and more particularly JO seitin for the more precious gems, such diamonds.

he objects of the invention are to provide a setting}; or mounting of this character enibodying' novel features of constructwn whereby the setting appears from casual observation to be part of the stone or gem so that the stone appears larger, and the settii 1; so blends therewith that the stone a i oear to be one stone; to prov which enhances the lustre of he stone; to provide a setting co rising a aceted bezel crown adapted to be secured in a conventional skeleton or pronged settir to admit light under the gene; to constru certain of the facets of said bezel so that the serve to hold the gem within the bezel; to form the bezel with positioning means to go the prongs of a conventional setting; mounting the bezel within. the said se" ting; to secure a simple construction and method for mounting; the gem within the bezel which in no manner detracts from the appearance of the bezel or tl gem; and to obtain other objects and results as niav be b iupght out by the followin deseript] l-leferring'g to the accompanying; orar. ngs, in which like numerals of reference indicate the same parts throughout the several views l igure fl is a perspective view of a gem setting embodying; my invention, showing the same upon a finger ring;

Figure 2 is a vertical sectional view through the same;

Figure 3 is a side elevation of the bezel and stone removed from the ring;

Figure 4 a view similar to Figure 2 showing the settings before the bezel is fastened therein. and showing the fasteningfacets of the bezel before they are flattened or burnished over the stone, and

Figure 5 is a detail perspective view of the bezel shown by Figure 4.

ln the specific embodiment of the invene the numeral 1 designates the Serial No. 337/l79,

conical and is provided with a centialb di"- posed g 1 receiving opening 2. The under side 3 oi. the bezel is substantially flat, and the outer edge thereof is beveled inwardly to fit into a conventional gen-i setting. The upper side of the bezel inclined upwardly and inwardly frozn the edge thereof and is formed with plurality of series of similarly formed polygonal raised facets 5 which eX tend inwardly toward the opening 2, between each series of which is pair of downwardly converging depressed facets 6 whose surfaces are disposed below the surfaces of the facets 5, as shown by Figures 3 and 5. At their outer edges the facets 6 join the adjacent facets 5, while their adjacent edges meet, as at 7, below the planes of the facets The meeting points of the adjacent edges of all th facets 6 the opening 2 are disposed in substantially a common plane, and the walls of the opening 2 incline downwardly and inwardly frorn these points, as at to form a seat or bearing for the faceted gene or stone 9, the girdle 9 of which when fitted in the bezel is substantially flush with the inner ends of the said meeting edges of the facets 6. The plane of the central facet 5 of each series 5 before the stone is set intersects the edges of the opening Qslightlv above the girdle line of the stone 3 in the opening as shown by 'ggures 4i; and 5. when the stone is placed in the bezel the in nor pointed ends 5 of these facets 5 are flattened or burnished over the stone as shown by Figures 2 and 3 the stone is thus firmly held. in the bezel. These points form parts :ie facets 5" overlap the stone suiucientlv to hold it in the bezel. so th at they are substantially invisible to a serial observer.

The bezel is adapted for use with rnany 5 as but for the purposes of tion the bezel is shown as mounted in conventional skeleton or pronged setting. When such a setting used the peripheral i of the bezel is preferably provided a oluiality of spaced notches 4 equal in nunioer to prongs 10 of a setting 11, and preferablv formed in the inclined depressed facets 6. The bezel is mounted in the setting 11 with its fiat underside 8 seated on shoulders 10 formed in the prongs 10 with the ends of the prongs engagthe notches 4 The ends 12 of the prongs l0 then upset or flattened down over the edge of the bezel and between the facets 6. The bezel is thus firmly mounted in the setting 11 and the notches 4 prevent slipping of the bezel in the prongs, as well as providing positioning means for arranging the bezel in the prongs. The ends of the prongs engage the oppositely inclined surfaces of the facets (3 and thus also serve to prevent movement or slipping of the bezel in the prongs 10.

The bezel 1 is preferably formed of a highly polished metal, such as platinum or white gold so as to be of substantially the same color as the stone, and the facets are of a formation similar to the facets of the gem. It will thus be obvious that the facets 5 and 6 will reflect light and produce a lustre very similar to the {stone so that the stone and bezel appear to be one stone. Furthermore, substantially the whole upper surface of the stone is completely exposed by fastening it in the bezel by means of the points 5 of the facets 5 so that only minute portions of the stone are covered, and this fastening means forming a part of the facets is substantially invisible so as not to detract from the appearance of the stone in any manner. While I have shown the bezel'mounted in one conventional type of setting it will be understood that it can be mounted in any desirable setting; and furthermore, the bezel is adapted for use with all jewelry settings, such ear rings, scarf pins, etc., as well as with finger rings illustrated.

Having thus described the invention, what I claim is:

l. A crown for jewelry settings provided with a centrally disposed gem receiving opening, said crown being formed with a plurality of facets, certain of said facets bordering the said opening extending inwardly over the girdle of the gemto hold the same in the opening in the crown, the inner ends of the meeting edges of others of the facets bordering the said opening being flush with the girdle of the gem.

2. A crown for jewelry settings provided with a central, gem receiving opening, said crown being formed with a plurality of facets bordering said opening, the inner ends of certain of said facets being disposed in a common plane above the edge of said opening while the inner ends of the meeting edges of others'of said facets are arranged in the plane of the edge of said opening.

3. A crown for jewelry settings provided with a central gem receiving opening having downwardly beveled walls, said crown being formed with a plurality of facets some of which border said opening with their inner ends arranged in a common plane above the upper edge of said opening and extending inwardly over the edge of said opening to hold a gem therein, while the inner ends of the meeting edges of others of said facets are arranged flush with the said upper edge of the opening.

4:. a crown for jewelry settings provided with a centrally disposed gem receiving opening, said crown beincr formed with a plurality of facets arranged at spaced points around said opening, theinner ends of said facets extending inwardly over the girdle of the gem to hold the gem in the said opening, said crown being also formed with other facets intermediate said first-mentioned facets with the inner ends of their meeting edges flush with the girdle of the gem.

A crown for jewelry settings provided with a centrally disposed gem receiving opening, said crown being provided with aplurality of similarly formed polygonal facets arranged at spaced intervals around the edge of said. opening, the inner angle of each of said facets being disposed above and extending inwardly over the girdle of the gem, said crown being also formed with a pair of downwardly converging facets intermediate adjacent ones of said first-mentioned facets with the inner ends of their .meeting edges disposed substantially flush notches and facets receiving the prongs ofthe setting to hold the crown portion in position therein.

i CHARLES T. l/VITTSTEIN. 

